By Dennis Kornbluh
When I moved to Lincoln from the New York metropolitan area, I thought that I'd be leaving ethnic dining behind. To some extent, I was right. After all, the numerous international restaurants of NYC are world-famous, and their existence is due to the ethnic diversity of the region. However, I've discovered that Lincoln, too, is quite diverse, having a substantial community of émigrés whose origins are African, Middle Eastern, Chinese, Korean, and Vietnamese. Luckily, many of them have opened restaurants. A few stand out by authentically representing the cuisine of the owners' heritage. Phở Nguyen is one such restaurant.
On a cold day, the windows of Phở Nguyen (pronounced "Fuh Win") are steamy and inviting. Upon entering, you are greeted by the fragrance of phở, which is the Vietnamese word for "soup". The casual setting is pleasant and clean, and Asian music plays in the background. The plants and paintings create a tropical feel that is reminiscent of many Southeast Asian restaurants.
The basic ingredient of phở is a homemade oxtail broth, which is simmered in spices. Added to the broth are thin rice noodles, and your choice of various cuts of beef, such as sirloin, eye round, and sliced meatballs (as well as other parts of the cow, if you choose, such as tripe & tendons). The thin slices of meat are added to the soup raw, where they quickly cook in the hot broth. Accompanying the soup is a plate of bean sprouts, lettuce, sliced fresh jalapeños, fresh basil, and wedges of lime, all of which are traditionally added to the soup. Other condiments are available tableside, such as "the spicy orange sauce in the red bottle" (Sriracha chili sauce, to the best of my knowledge), which you should use sparingly.
Phở is available in small ($5.25), large ($6.25), and jumbo ($7.25)
sizes. A large bowl is usually sufficient for my appetite (which is
legendary). Though a fork is available, phở is usually eaten with chopsticks and a soup spoon. Most of the customers who frequent Phở Nguyen are Asian, which is usually a good indication of authenticity. I've been a customer for two years now, during which time the food has been consistently good. The restaurant's popularity does seem to be increasing among non-Asian's, from my casual observation.
Though the focus is distinctly on soup, there are many other good dishes on the menu such as the spring roll appetizers, fried tofu over rice, and phở gà, a chicken-based soup. For drinks, don't forget to try a Vietnamese Iced Coffee, or a Tapioca Pearl shake.
If I'm forced to criticize one thing about Phở Nguyen, it's that they're closed on Tuesdays. I've absentmindedly shown up on more than one Tuesday in eager anticipation of a steaming bowl of phở, only to find a locked door. On those days, I usually wander off to another ethnic restaurant that has an equally good reputation, located just down the road, which I will write about in an upcoming review.
Recent Comments