Ethnic Grocery Stores Abound in Lincoln

By Alexis Abel

On Memorial Day in Lincoln, most families are preparing for the hot and humid American summer to come.  When it comes to food, many will adhere to the iconic Bud Light and grilled burgers smothered with ketchup and melted American cheese. But not everyone is content with such standard fare. For those seeking something a little out of the ordinary, Lincoln has a lot to offer in local grocery stores that pack exotic foods and flavors into small spaces.

It’s no surprise to many that Lincoln is home to myriad ethnic supermarkets. Since the 1980s, Nebraska in general and Lincoln in particular has seen an influx of people from Africa, Asia, the Middle East and of course, Mexico. According to the 2000 Census, Nebraska had the highest increase in foreign-born persons in the last decade than any other midwestern state. Nebraska is also fifth for refugee resettlement per capita when compared to states of similar population. More than half of refugees that come to Nebraska settle in Lincoln.

I recently visited a few of the many local ethnic grocery stores to get a taste of what Lincoln’s has to offer. My first stop was La Mexicana at 1637 P Street. Upon entering the store I was immediately entranced by the colorful piñatas hanging from the ceiling. The store is large, and offers a variety of Mexican groceries, including dried chiles; a variety of Mexican spices; jars of mole and salsa, tortillas, beans, chips and tostadas. In addition to the dried goods, there is a small section of fresh produce, whose offerings include fresh cactus. La Mexicana also has a fresh meat counter that changes daily. On the day I visited, they offered whole beef tongue and menudo (tripe), alongside whole chicken, fish and ready-to-cook chicken and beef fajitas. Their most popular product is Coca-Cola in the bottle, sweetened with sugar instead of the typical North American corn syrup. La Mexicana has been open for 13 years and also houses a Mexican restaurant, quite popular for its generous margaritas and large portions.

Another Lincoln institution is Vina Market at 611 N 27^th Street, next to Pho Nguyen restaurant. Vina Market, open for 16 years, is primarily Vietnamese, but offers staples for a range of Asian cuisines, including Vietnamese, Thai, Chinese, Korean, Indian and Japanese. Their dried goods include rice and noodles, canned vegetables and sauces, beverages, packaged snacks and spices. The produce is carefully wrapped and neatly arranged to showcase its freshness. They offer a variety of mushrooms, eggplant, melons and other produce that is hard to find at a traditional grocery store. The store’s bestsellers include its fresh shrimp and herbs, such as Thai basil, coriander and kaffir lime leaves. In addition to shrimp, the meat counter has several varieties of whole fish—bass, tilapia, catfish and others—as well as beef, chicken and sometimes, pig’s feet. In the freezer section, find frozen seafood, like whole squid, vegetables and many varieties of dim sum. One item that immediately caught my eye was the quail eggs, sold fresh by the dozen. Of the many Asian markets I’ve visited in Lincoln over the years, Vina Market stands out for its quality, freshness and selection.

For Asian on a smaller scale, visit India Grocery at 1637 P Street, located in the same plaza as La  Mexicana. Open in the evening Monday through Friday and during the day on Saturday and Sunday, India Grocery offers a selection of Indian staples, as well as some prepared foods. Their dried goods include bags of beans, lentils, rice, Chapati flour, spices (Garam masala and bay leaves, among others) and a variety of jarred sauces and sauce mixes. Their small freezer section stocks prepared meals, while their small produce section has curry leaves, eggplant, ginger and yogurt. Bags of flattened rice and bottles of rosewater are a must-buy for any adventurous cook. Flattened rice has been dehusked to make it easier to prepare. The rice swells when liquid is added and is used to make light snacks or fast food. Rosewater is used to flavor desserts, including lassi, rice pudding, ice cream and cookies.

 For your sausage fix, head over to Russian Market and European Groceries. The brand new Lincoln store, located at 2630 Orchard Street, has only been open since April 12, but is quietly becoming known for its European ice cream, beverages and sausages. The store features foods from Russia, Lithuania and Germany, and stocks several varieties of sausage, including German, Russian, Finnish and Canadian, as well as canned vegetables, pickles and sauces. The freezer section is filled to the brim with frozen dumplings and perogies. A small German section includes Haribo gummy bears, Rittersport chocolate bars (including my favorite variety, Cornflake) and dried mixes. Other items include plenty of snack foods and beverages.

The final store I visited on my tour was King Tut’s Grocery and Imported Goods, a Middle Eastern market at 1624 O Street. King Tut’s has been open since 1981. The store offers a variety of dried goods, including spices and canned goods, but is popular for its cheese and olive oil. The store stocks cheese from around the world. One customer argued that the feta (particularly the tin of "Valbreso" French goat cheese) is the best they've tasted.  Other popular items include the fresh flat bread, "halwah" sesame paste dessert, dates, and Middle Eastern teas.

No matter what kind of food you’re craving, the many ethnic markets in Lincoln have all the exotic ingredients needed by aspiring chefs, and even mere mortals who want to add new flavors to their cooking. This summer, break away from the humdrum American fare by visiting one of these unfamiliar stores to find the inspiration you need to light up your culinary world. 

La Mexicana 1637 P Street (402) 477-4845	Vina Market 611 N 27th Street #4 (402) 476-1119
India Grocery 1637 P Street #D (402) 438-1637	Russian Market & European Groceries 2630 Orchard Street (402) 475-0554
King Tut’s Grocery and Imported Goods 1624 O Street (402) 475-9337